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Volume 5 Issue 2/ Spring 2009
Editorial: not made in china

joe by judy black

 

May 28, 2009 editorial

In January of this year I attended a conference in Hendersonville North Carolina; this experience forms the basis and jumping off point for this issue.  “Inspired Design: Jacquard and Entrepreneurial Textiles”, took place in conjunction with an exploration of art and design in industrial production of textiles.. I was listening for, and heard, about the contemporary realties of the North American textile industry and was sent back to my childhood. I grew up in a Mill town during the 1960’s at a time of corporate expansion, amalgamating or relocating production facilities and shutting down factories.  The oil crisis of 1972/75 was for many industries a last nail in the coffin. The stories I heard at the conference were extremely familiar and part of me wanted to subtitle this issue “Not Made In China.”  However, the line between “Made in Canada” and just plain old “Not Made” is very thin. The current crisis has not been caused by the current financial break down alone.
 
[photo: me with "Dr. Evile dressed like joe lewis"  by designer Judy Black
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Inspired design: Jacquard and Entrepreneurial Textiles
ID cover
Inspired design: Jacquard and Entrepreneurial Textiles.

A Conference, at Blue Ridge Community College, Hendersonville, North Carolina, USA. January 7-10 2009.

Organized by Center for Craft, Creativity and Design a regional inter-institutional center of the University of North Carolina in Hendersonville, North Carolina 

 Over the next 5 pages you will find a text version of Anna Zaharakos of Studio Z from Grand Rapids, Michigan presentation, conference reports from myself (joe lewis: editor) observer Megan Coyan: artist/designer/maker from Columbus, Ohio and Jenna M. Eason: student conference assistant from North Carolina State University.

You will also find a "Gallery" of work from exhibition participants,  presenters, and conference attendees showing the wide range of work being executed on industrial and hand involved Jacquard Looms along with samples of Entrepreneurial Textiles produce on hand looms

 
Inspired Design Conference notes; by Joe Lewis

mill 1

For me, and I believe for many others, what stays with one after an experience is a combination of the experience itself and what was taken away.  In the case of the Inspired Design conference in Hendersonville, North Carolina, this past January, [which was organized by the Center for Craft, Creativity and Design] the experience and what was taken away was beyond good. That others share this view is evident in the reviews of the conference that have arrived:   

“Every one knew they were sharing an extraordinary moment in the recent history of jacquard weaving” Beatrijs Sterk: editor Textile Forum [TF1/2009 March]

“I loved having so many students there. It was encouraging to meet and talk with a keen “next generation” of textile artists” Robin Muller: associate professor NSCAD (Nova Scotia College of Art and Design)

“ …there were so many people there whose names I had only read in books, or whose work I've studied to inspire my pieces- I guess I was "star struck". Jenna M. Eason: student conference assistant from North Carolina State University.

“…it was the cool people that were there that made it truly enjoyable.” Megan Coyan: artist/designer/maker Columbus, Ohio

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Studio Z: presented by Anna Zaharakos
little critters

  Anna Zaharakos and Studio Z

Presentation from the Inspired Jacquard & Entrepreneurial Textile Conference

 Studio Z and myself, Anna Zaharakos, brought a perspective to the conference from the “exhilarating” trenches of the current textile industry. On our way to the conference we stopped by several mills, in one case our meeting was delayed due to layoffs. Business was off by 30% at two of the larger mills, and 10% at a smaller mill. We had recently developed an exciting textile, with a new yarn development, just as we arrived at the mill to weave the first samples we were informed that the yarn vendor, had gone bankrupt, with no interested party in buying the capacity to produce our yarn.


[Product photo: Mini Critters, lading pads for gadgets.]
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Conference Report from Megan A. Coyan
Megan Coyan loom
 
 
 
In January, I had the opportunity to attend the conference Inspired Design: Jacquard & Entrepreneurial Textiles, which accompanied the textile exhibit of the same name, organized by The Center for Craft, Creativity & Design in Hendersonville, North Carolina.  As a self-employed artist and designer, I went there with a primary interest in the entrepreneurial side of Jacquard weaving.
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Anyone Interested in Weaving by Jenna M. Eason
Jenna Eason Grey Gold
 
 
In December 2007, I graduated from North Carolina State University’s Anni Albers Program with two degrees: BS in Textile Technology and BA in Art and Design.  In January 2008, I began graduate studies at the NCSU College of Textiles in the Textile Technology and Management master’s degree program.  My focus is in Automotive Textiles and Design, conducting research with Professor Nancy Powell.
 
To support my studies, I spent the summer of 2008 at Nagoya University in Japan, taking a course in Advanced Technology and Tasks in Automotive Engineering and participating in global lectures and company visits hosted by Toyota, Mitsubishi, Honda, Nissan, Denso, Yamaha, Koito, and JARI.
 
 
[grey & gold cloth woven on 8 Harness Dobby loom, photo by Jenna Eason]
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Jacquard and Entrepreneurial Textile Gallery

 

After returning to Toronto after this conference i quickly got in touch with some of the presenters, attendees and student interns to solicit reports on this event and a request for images. You have read the reports so now here are the images. 

Barbra layne Tornado Dress 2007



According to the exhibition catalogue for Inspired Design exhibition " Barbara Layne, from Montreal, is Professor, Concordia University, and a member of Hexagram; the Institute for Research and Creation in Media Arts and Technologies researching Interactive Textiles and wearable computers. She designs performative textiles for costume and stage, dance and other performance events."
 
Barbara Layne is also the maker of this dress. Though not the piece that was in the exhibition it is part of the same series of pieces she has been working on using the photographs of  Nebraska storm-chaser, Mike Hollingshead.
 

Tornado Dress. 2007

The fabric of the Tornado Dress features a mimaki print of a tornado. A funnel cloud and lightening bolts are printed on linen fabric. The lining has been embroidered with conductive threads and electronic components including super-bright white LEDs. Three small photocells were stitched to the outside of the dress and detect ambient light. Depending on the quantity of light that is sensed, different flashing patterns are triggered in the LED display, reminiscent of lightning effects that can accompany severe weather situations.

 Tornado Photographer Mike Hollingshead work can be seen at his website 

www.extremeinstability.com

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An Entrepreneurial Approach to Textiles in Canada
LB loom 1
 
 In this section we are presenting designer/ makers producing textiles with which to make their own products.

We profile Designers Virginia Johnson who works with a textile screen printing factory to produce yardage for her line of garments and fashion accessories, Judy Black a team of sisters who print out of their own studio.

 This issues finishing School are two OCAD graduates who used digital printing in their thesis projects.

Two hand weavers have contributed stories: Bure Leon from Montreal produce a line of interior design products, while Rilla Marshall from the east coast printers interviews herself on Process.

Lastly Montreal based knitwear designer and teacher Lysanne Latulippe talks about coming to knitwear and developing a relationship with a local knitting mill.