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Cultural Revival of Old Textile Centres: New Educational Challenges, is the theme of the 15th European Textile Network Conference which takes place in Haslach Austria, July 21st to 24th, 2009. An exhibition of contemporary jacquard woven art textiles called “thinking different / thinking jacquART” has been organized to accompany this conference and will open on July 26 and continue until September 6th 2009.

thinking ifferent/ thinking JacquART ,

22nd July 2009, 6th
September 2009 at the Textile Centre [in the former Vonwiller weaving mill]
Haslach. Austria. 

For the 15th ETN Conference, held in Haslach in July of this year, the Textile Kultur Haslach Association and Digital Weaving Norway invited a number of European artists and designers to submit pieces produced on a jacquard loom as possible entries in an exhibition scheduled alongside the Conference.

News: In the summer of 2008, that the last remaining school for weaving technicians in Austria, located in Haslach, had been forced to close prompted the idea, as it seemed likely that some of the school’s state-of-the-art weaving machines, including several jacquard looms, could be accommodated in the Textile Centre currently being established in town.

Wen-Ying Huang from Taiwan: Uniform,  2008, Stainless steel wire, coated copper. Double weave woven on a TC-1, sewing. 65 ㎝ x 34㎝ x 83㎝
uniform back 
click on image to see actual size view

Invitations to potential applicants, 48 addressees in 15 European countries, were sent out by Christina Leitner from Haslach, Vibeke Vestby from Oslo and myself, Beatrijs Sterk, from Hanover. Together with Professor Marga Persson of Linz Art University, the three senders selected 26 pieces by 21 designers from 12 countries.(*), taking into account the facilities available on site. To cover the full range of jacquard weaving, five further individuals — well-known jacquard specialists — were asked to enter specific pieces: Lia Cook, Pauline Verbeek Cowart and Carol Westfall from the USA; Wen-Ying Huang from Taiwan; and Susanne Heindl from Austria.

The majority of the works are wall hangings, executed in a great variety of techniques. Aija Baumane, [Latvia] used a charcoal drawing as the starting point for her design; Ismini Samanidou [Greece] created a weaving based on an almost completely faded 18th century wallpaper, using the subtleties of the jacquard technique to the full; Anne Størseth [Norway] based her piece on overlaid digital street maps; and Jekaterina Alksne [Latvia] used complex old weaving structures to weave a tapestry. Grethe Sørensen [Denmark] works with pixels, breaking them up to create multi-coloured, washed-out images. Katja Huhmarkangas [Finland] uses weaving structures as immediate forms of expression, without reference to graphic or photographic artwork. Kari Merete Paulsen [Norway] used an original photograph of people in a landscape as a starting point. Monika Zaltkauskaitd-Grasiend [Lithuania] works with portrait photos; she photographed her baby’s breathing motions two hours after birth, translating the images into repeating weaving patterns. Eva Basile [Italy] presented modem lance weavings that allude to old velvets. The final piece to merit mention in this category is a witty “art statement” by Eva Augustyn[Austria], a stag’s antlers shown in relief to poke fun at those hunting trophies so popular with a certain set of people.

Another group of designers focused on textiles for interior spaces. Marian de Graaff  [Netherlands], El Trenil [Austria], Sari SyvA luoma [Finland] and Maria Hossle-Stix [Germany] submitted everyday textiles. Aleksandra Gaca [Netherlands] is represented by amazing three- dimensional textiles that can be used as soundproofing elements in interior spaces. A similarly interesting, three-dimensional fabric incorporating an “inner life” was submitted by Philippa Brock/UK the object contains elastic yams that reshape it when it is removed from the loom.

Lee Chen Hao
Lee Chen-Hao from from Taiwan, " Luxury as a rubbish"  Recycling Magazine , Paper , cotton, synthic fibre, 300cm x 30cm x 300cm, woven on TC-1,  photo by artist

 Chang Ming Chi The Lanage Read

Chang Ming-Chi, Taiwan, “Die Sprache lessen” The Language Read; 2008,  cotton, gold color yarn, and Abaka fibre [jacquard tape from newspaper] 73 cm X 350 cm,
woven onTC-1 loom, photo by artist
Two Taiwanese students Lee Chen-Hao and Chang Ming-Chi, living in Linz will show two  installation, offering a critical view on European culture. Petter Hellsing [Sweden] will present three- dimensional woven “houses”. Another three-dimensional installation by Simona Standler [Czech Republic] deals with linguistic relationships in the Austrian-Czech border area near Haslach.
Urban weft
Petter Hellsing  from Sweden, Urban Weft, 2008, pieced jacquard woven cloth, with embroidery, approximately 80cm high
SIMONA_Standler Sprache_versus_speech
Simona Standler ,Czech Republic, " Sprache Versus Řeč?,  "Sprache Versus Speech 2007, cotton warp, linen weft,  72 cm X 300 , woven on TC-1

A single piece makes reference to other digital forms of expression: Lisa Frølund [Denmark] will show “Musical Metamorphosis”, a woven version of digital music in the form of a band measuring 260 cm in length and 5 cm in width. It represents a recording of one third of a second of a lullaby, composed in 2005 by Hanno Raffnso for a project entitled, “Let the weave sing, and let the music materialize”.

Lise Frolund from Denmark, Musical Materialize  Ramie and paper, 5cm x 2cm x 2600 cm, and CD of lullaby by Hanne Raffnsø , woven on TC1 loom. Photo by Ole Akhøj


 The exhibition illustrates, most impressively, the extent to which European artists and designers have succeeded in finding new expressions with the jacquard loom. They certainly need not fear comparison with their North American colleagues.

The exhibition will be accompanied by a catalogue. The opening takes place on Wednesday, 22nd July 2009, at 6p.m. in the rooms of the Textile Centre at the former Vonwiller weaving mill of Haslach. Entitled “Thinking different: Thinking JacquART”, it will run until 6th September 2009.


The following artists/designers will present jacquard objects: Jekaterina Alksne, Eva Augustyi Aija l3au- mane, Eva Basile, Philippa M. Brock, Ming-Chi Chang, Lisa Frølund, Aleksandra Gaca, Marian de Graaff, Peter Heilsing, Maria Hossle-Stix, Katja Fluhrnarkangas, Chen-Hao Lee, Kari Merete Paulsen, Ismini Samanidou, Simona Siandler, Grethe Sorensen, Anne Storseth, Sari Syvilluonia, Elisa Tremi, and Monika Zaltkauskaité-Grasiené.

Jekaterina Alksne, from Latvia Mandarinfish 2007, triptich130 .cm x 72 cm, 12 threads per 1 cm,  wool and polyester, woven on TC-1. Photo by artist  

This story has been reprinted from ETN Textile Forum 1/2009 March with permission
Images have been provided from them also and used with permission

There is still time to register for this conference  see line up on next page

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